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In the golden age of American watchmaking, few brands combined Swiss precision with bold, avant-garde design quite like Gruen. While their competitors often focused on classic, conservative styles, Gruen was unafraid to experiment, creating some of the most distinctive and architecturally interesting watches of the 20th century. This incredible piece, colloquially known as the “Barclay” or more evocatively as the “Spider,” is a quintessential example of Gruen’s design genius and a true icon for collectors.
Founded in the late 19th century, the Gruen Watch Company was known for its “Precision” movements, which were manufactured at their state-of-the-art “Precision Factory” in Bienne, Switzerland. This watch is powered by the in-house Caliber 335, part of the renowned “Veri-Thin” family of movements. These were marvels of compact engineering, allowing Gruen’s designers the freedom to create cases that were slimmer and more elegant than the competition. The “21 Jewels” designation on the dial was a mark of a high-grade movement, built with extra cap jewels for enhanced durability and chronometric performance.
What makes this particular Reference 335-723 an absolute showstopper is its spectacular case. The 10k gold-filled body is a masterpiece of faceted, sculptural design, but it’s the lugs that give the watch its “Spider” nickname. These long, articulated, and sharply angled lugs extend from the case like an arachnid’s legs, creating a dramatic and unforgettable profile on the wrist. It’s a design that is pure Art Deco-influenced, post-war swagger. The 32mm case wears much larger and more prominently thanks to this incredible lug design.
Complementing the extraordinary case is a stunningly preserved dial. The original black surface has aged to a beautiful, textured “tropical” finish, with a fine, granular patina that is simply mesmerizing. The gilt (gold) printing of the Gruen logo, “21,” and the “Precision” signature remains crisp and legible, providing a warm contrast against the dark dial. The applied, gold-toned dart markers and original leaf-style handset are in fantastic condition, completing a look that is both sophisticated and incredibly striking.
